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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.